Getting on the Right Frequency.......

Zap to It!

I've got bad skin. There I've said it. I'm a makeup artist and health food fanatic and I still continually work hard to control break outs and flare ups galore. Could be genetic (though I have yet to see evidence of this in other family members,) but mostly it's that perfect combination of life long exposure to environmental toxins, less than stellar endocrine function, and stress. I've therefore had, well, over a decade of experience eking out the best (and worst) treatments available. One that I feel that I can recommend to everyone, regardless of what that perfect cocktail is that causes your occasional breakouts, is high frequency treatment. High frequency treatments are generally administered by an esthetician, (or student thereof,) during, or as part of, a facial cleansing treatment. A sterile glass "wand"(it's actually a glass electrode) is filled with compressed argon gas, (it glows purple!) and lowered only a few centimeters from your skin. Similar in appearance to when you used to put your hand on those globe things at The Nature Company (dude I so miss that store.) a mild electrical current passes through the wand into your skin and lightly "zaps" you. This is called sparking. In doing this the gas is forcing enriched oxygen into the skin, known as "ozone" (yeah, I know, lame naming choice) and what this does is kills bacteria in the skin. It can penetrate many layers of the epidermis and treats very deep acne or very shallow. If you have experience performing high frequency treatments, home wands can be purchased and they are, amazing. If you don't have this type of experience let me advise you here and now to go to someone who does. Even if it's a school so that you get a lower price, you don't want to fly blind with this one. Why? You can really do some damage if you misjudge the distance between the wand and your skin. Too far away and you simultaneously open and cauterize the blemish creating scar tissue on it, making it difficult to clear, and making a big dark mark on your face. Also be careful of jewelry or any metals in the body like pins from broken bones. These can mess with the current and do everything from diverting its energy, to mildly electrocuting yourself. That being said, a monthly treatment from a pro is very safe and can immensely improve your skin, and if you really know what you're doing, a daily treatment from an at home system is GLORIOUS.

BKBTY

Rants & Raves: So Delicious!!!!!!

Coconut Ice Cream! 

Once again it's summer and the heat and humidity are so intense. Makes you want to run outside and assault that wonderful cooled van full of melty delicious treats jingling down the sidewalk!!!!! But if you're like me, digesting processed dairy and high amounts of sugar leave you feeling just awful, and, well, worse than you did before >:(  Luckily for us the company SO Delicious, who started with SOY Delicious, have delved into producing other non-dairy frozen products made from almonds, rice, and (drumroll here,) coconuts. Now there are a number of companies in on the coconut ice cream movement, but I'll explain why SO Delicious gets my vote. They have an even more specified line (within their coconut line!) of reduced/no sugar added products. In beautiful bright aqua containers they come in vanilla bean, chocolate, mint chip, toasted almond chip, and butter pecan, (so far...) Like their fully sugared counterparts they're vegan, gluten free, and soy free (big victory there.) But they're sweetened with erythritol: a sugar alcohol with a glycemic index of 0 and the least irritating to the tummy of all the sugar alcohols, and a small amount of monk fruit: a gourd native to China and Thailand who's sugars are not absorbed by the body, and who have been used in Eastern medicine for centuries to treat diabetes. This means that instead of 17-22 grams of sugar in a half cup (the average for most coconut ice creams) there is 1. And it's super easy to digest and absolutely DELICIOUS. Ok, ok it's not the MOST natural of the foods I eat, and yes it is processed, but luckily, it's kinda pricy. I've yet to see it sold for lower than six and a half dollars per pint. Available in a number of health stores but Whole Foods and Wegman's both carry it too. Also this is not a product for anyone who still thinks all fats = unhealthy. You'll see the light someday but until that day this still contains between 8-11 grams of fat per half cup. This doesn't concern me that much, I am a big proponent of good fats (see my post about coconut oil,) but it does contain a fair amount of gums and stabilizers. This is then the perfect equation for a once in while treat, just like ice cream used to be, and I'm happy about that ;)

BKBTY

Get Updates in your Facebook Feed...

Hey all, I also have a Facebook page if you enjoy my posts and recipes. It's an easy way to automatically get my new posts. my facebook page.

**UPDATE** I also have a twitter feed where I'll be linking my blog entries if you're tweet junkie :)

BKBTY

Recipe: Building a Better Chapati....

GF Flatbread!

  

Chapati are a traditional Indian flatbread that are easy to make and require very few ingredients, (essentially they're flour and water.) Their simplicity ALSO makes them perfect for experimenting with different flours and creating flatbreads for those of us with dietary restrictions. So if you long for warm fresh bread but gluten and/or high glycemic index non-wheat baking mixes have you down, this one's for you <3 

Ingredients:

1/4 cup whole ground brown rice flour

1/4 cup quinoa flour

1/4 cup black bean flour

1/4 cup coconut flour

1/4 tsp salt

3/4 tsp xanthan gum

1/2 (+ 1/4-ish) cup of water

coconut oil 

more brown rice flour for rolling

Directions:

1. In a mixing bowl combine flours, xanthan gum, and salt and blend with fork or use flour sifter.

2. Slowly pour 1/2 cup of water over the dry mix using clean fingers to mix and make sure water is evenly dispersed.  At this time check your dough. The xanthan gum and coconut flour really absorb moisture. I tend to find I need about 1/8th of a cup more of water. Knead for 5-10 min, this is a good time to figure out if you require a bit more water. The consistency we want is bread dough, so slightly stickier than cookies but looser than pie dough. 

3. Once your dough comes together melt a tsp of the coconut oil, and with a spoon or pastry brush cover dough ball and then cover ball with saran wrap or damp towel. Leave unrefrigerated for 30 min.

4. Using some brown rice flour* on a clean kitchen counter (*I like to use this the best, it has a very neutral flavor and is the cheapest to buy so my fav for rolling) make a 6-7" log with the dough. Rolling it like those snakes we all made during clay day in art class. 

5. Take a knife and cut the log into two halves. Then cut each half into thirds, leaving you with 6 little dough balls. Carefully stack these in a floured or parchment papered bowl. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours. gluten free dough rolls MUCH easier when cold.

6. When you're ready to make the chapati take two small bowls and fill one with some brown rice flour and one with a couple tsps of melted coconut oil. Get out a small frying pan.

7. Take out as many little balls as you want chapati (put the rest away for laters) and roll them one at a time into flat discs approx 6" in diameter. 

8. Using a spoon or pastry brush, apply melted coconut oil to the topside of each disc. Then fold the discs in half once, so they're semi-circles. Then fold those in half once more creating small triangles. 

9. Pinch the edges to seal and dip in the flour. 

10. Using your rolling pin again, slowly start to roll out the triangles. Roll a corner, then turn, keep rolling and keeping well floured in this manner until a rounder shape is created** and dough is 1/4" thick. set on a plate and continue to the others. 

**this takes a knack. Every time I do it I improve, but honestly the most important part is making sure they don't tear and fall apart. Focus on that first, then get technical about shape :) And it's ok if a little oil comes out. keep it floured and roll to seal the corner.

11. Turn on a burner over medium high heat and wait a minute for it to get hot. Using a spoon or pastry brush cover one side of chapati with oil again and put it face down in the frying pan. If you see large bubbles forming in the center of the chapati CONGRATULATIONS!!!! This is what we want, and it's harder to achieve with the GF flours, but not impossible! 

12. Once the chapati has darkened slightly in color and the bubbles have formed (about a min or two,) coat the top side of chapati with oil and flip. This will cook the other side which is much quicker (30 sec.) Return to plate and repeat! 

**Note** As I've mentioned before coconut oil has a low smoke point so some smoking will occur, but make sure your flame is med high not all the way up and keep an eye on the chapati and it shouldn't  smoke too badly. It's a lot like cooking crepes or pancakes in that respect. 

This is an easy recipe to double (12) triple (18) quadruple! (you get the idea) Dough will keep for about a week to ten days before it starts to loose a bit of its integrity (downside of less processed food.) Also to be noted GF doughs do not freeze and then unfreeze well. The flours themselves are fine in the freezer, and in general gf baked goods do well there too, but the water content is key for these guys and unfreezing tends to make the dough goopy and the finished chapati tough, so only make enough dough up as you think you'll eat in a week.

 I love these fresh and hot out of the pan all pre salted and oiled! You can of course opt to pair them with veggies or eggs or lentils or cheese or even fruit and cream! Heck it's a crazy world of flat bread opportunities available to you once again, so enjoy!

BKBTY

Foundation for Success Part III

Liquids

Soooo groovy---mostly because that word still makes me think of this. But all physics for children (and me) aside, liquid foundation is not necessarily the rage that it was when I was 13. But it still has it's place. I've interestingly found in my experiences that individuals of a certain age prefer a liquid to a mineral or airbrush, because it comforts them to feel more like they're "really wearing makeup." That being said, it's defintately a much heavier feeling from today's more modern alternatives.

Why I would recommend a liquid.

1.Newer brands do come in HD friendly formulations and if you really feel that a slightly heavier application is necessary-- from differences in skin pigmentation to scars or as previously mentioned, it's just more in your comfort level-- then a liquid can really be great.
2. They're also perfect for events in between theatrical and film. Like pageant work, public addresses, fund raisers or charity events where perhaps more makeup should be worn than if you were going to the office, but not formal enough to hire a makeup artist for a airbrush app.
3. They can work really well in film or photography or weddings when a more made up look is necessary or purposeful. Take a peek at the Bollywood Bridal Makeup video I posted to see what I'm talking about. To balance the traditional formal eye makeup application, a heavier level of foundation is required for the face, so a liquid is great in those instances. Also if you're trying to recreate a certain time period for film. I fully believe you cannot achieve a Marilyn Monroe, Rita Moreno, Elizabeth Taylor, or Lena Horne without a heavier base like liquid or cream. It just doesn't look right otherwise.

Why I wouldn't recommend it.
1. Basically unless it's one of the above reasons, avoid. It's heavy, pore clogging, can easily look over made for more casual day to day wear.
2. Editorial work, most film, or "neutral/natural/effortless beauty" makeup. Whether for fashion, bridal, red carpet, etc. With the advent of digital film close up photos can make it look cakier than even the eye views it. And long wear (over 6 hours) runs the danger of it melting more than airbrushing might.
3. Ingredients like--- Cyclopentasiloxane, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Mica, talc, PEG-10 Dimenthicone, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenyl, Trimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Lauroyl Lysine, Dimenthicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Cyclohexacyloxane, Methylisothiazolinone, Sorbitan Sesquileate, Silver Oxide, Propylene, Carbonate, Parfum (fragrance), Methylparaben, Fagus Sylvatica Extract (Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract), Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, [+/- CI 77891 )titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides).  **Keep in mind over 70% of what we put on our skin is absorbed into our bodies and then must be processed by our organs....***

Best brand to buy.
While both MAC and Clinique deserve honorable mentions here, the gold medal is easily handed to Makeup Forever for liquid. (stay tuned for pressed powder MAC-o-philes) their HD invisible cover foundation is the most modern and lightest on the market and if you do need a liquid for daily wear, I really strongly urge you to investigate this one. It's really one of the few liquids that is used in film or some editorial work. It comes in 26 shades and is easily blended.

What to keep in your kit.
Liquids can be applied with you finger tips, sponges, or a foundation brush. Brushes are great at product conservation, being the least absorptive of all three, but be warned, it in itself requires maintenance  Brushes, especially ones used with wet products, can harbor serious bacteria and dead skin cells. It needs washing at least once a week if not twice. I like to use my hands for application best. Wash your hands thoroughly and then use your finger tips to apply. Any smoothing or blending can be done with a sponge, but don't splurge for sponges at a makeup store either. Target sells bags of them for $1.99 that can be disposed of or washed and reused. Liquid must also always be set with powder and stays in place longer when primer is applied first.

What to leave to the pros.
Liquid is harder to flub and blend than airbrush or mineral. So if you're unsure about just exactly what shade you might be, ask a makeup artist. Some of the nice ones will charge you a minimal fee to go on a "guided shop" with you and can help you pick out products and colors galore! Like a personal shopper but for beauty products!

What to leave on the shelf.
Ok this might sound silly but foundation that comes in a spray can. Maybe if you're doing body work and you need it for arms/legs/tummy/ but otherwise don't use an aerosol can on your face. Please respect your face more than that. Also I would avoid anything that claims to be a liquid and powder in one. These tend to be the cakiest and heaviest of all. Remember that time in middle school when you thought it would be a good idea to switch to a shampoo & conditioner and then your hair looked and acted like oily spaghetti? Yeah, sometimes two in ones aren't always the best....

BKBTY

Happy Canada Day!!!

Still Standing on Guard for Thee (remotely)

Growing up in WNY I spent five months a year north of the border and countless snowy weekends in between. I have a lot of fond memories of the yearly "Friendship Festival" that occurs between Canada Day and The Fourth of July. Fireworks, carnival rides, sparklers, smores, and popsicles galore! In my subconscious I think I still consider this a sort of a holiday week rather than merely one day. So here's to the start of a glorious week of Summer Fun! If you've never tried Tim Horton's, today is the day to do it friends!

BKBTY

Recipe: Stewed Lentils

Stewed Lentils/Dal

This is a recipe I adapted very slightly from Aarti Sequeira who is seriously one of the most awesome cooks on TV, and if you guys like the food I'm posting you should all seriously check her out!!!! The original recipe calls for masoor red lentils, which are a small red lentil similar in size to the ones we always find split in the store. It's important however to not used split lentils for this as they will cook too quickly and not keep their structural integrity. This messes up the dish and makes it MUSH. I love using the small green lentils they have at TJ's now, but I've also used regular sized lentils with good results. I wouldn't use large lentils as they will take longer to cook and then the other ingredients will turn to MUSH!

Ingredients:

1 cup lentils (rinsed and de-stoned)

1 onion (Spanish or Vidalia)

1 Jalapeno or Serrano chile (see breakfast onion about pepper selection)

2 medium sized tomatoes

4 cloves garlic (minced)

1/2" piece ginger (peeled and minced)

2 cups water

1 tbsp coconut oil (unrefined)

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

1/2 tsp mustard seeds

heaping 1/2 turmeric

1/2 tsp smokey paprika

1/2 cup rough chopped fresh cilantro

salt to taste

Directions:

1. After rinsing the lentils place them in bowl and soak them in water for 30 min. Set aside.

2. While lentils are soaking chop/or dice onion and slice tomatoes. Put in large sauce pan or soup pot.

3. Mince the garlic, ginger, and chile. Add to pot. *You can also do this in a food processor and make it into a paste if you wish. I prefer the larger pieces myself for this dish but if you don't, go ahead and make a paste. 

4. Add soaked lentils and water. Bring to a boil. ***don't salt your water! This will actually toughen the lentils making it difficult to get them to a "cooked" mouth feel.

5. Reduce heat and cover. Simmer for 20 min. Lentils are done when nice and soft but not yet split.

6.  Remove from heat. Add your salt, and with a whisk, stir lentils while slightly mashing. We don't need lentil soup consistency, but maybe a quarter of them should be mashed. Set aside.

7.  In a sauté pan melt coconut oil over med high heat and add mustard and cumin seeds. Count to ten whilst they pop and sputter. Then add paprika and turmeric. Stir for 10-15 sec. Turn off heat and add to lentils. If spices start to smoke before you've finished counting (which can happen and quickly,) immediately remove from heat and if spices are not totally charred add to lentils. Sadly if they really burn you just have start over :(

8. Add chopped cilantro and serve! 

Tip- It really helps to sort your spices out before you start that whole process. Coconut oil has a low smoke point and you really have to keep your eyes on the pan to prevent scorching your spices. So measure out your seeds together in a small bowl, and your powders together in a small bowl and put each next to your pan before beginning to "open" your spices. 

BKBTY