Pucker Up! ( ' }{ ' )

Lips Lipstick!

Models from Costello Tagliapietra and Nina Ricci respectively. Photos courtesy thereof. 

Is the name of one of Koko the signing gorilla's kittens. But it's also how I now plan on broaching the subject of the loved and dreaded "statement lip" and facial balancing. To begin let's get a little technical. Best to get that bit out of the way, right? As the great Kevyn Aucoin classified it, there are four face balances. 1: a neutral eye and lip (a natural look) 2. A dramatic lip but neutral eye (good for slightly more formal events) 3. A dramatic eye with a neutral lip (equally formal as 2) 4. Dramatic eyes and lips (good for very formal events, a full face.) If you want to try a red lip this fall or winter as seen on the runway at the shows of Oscar de la Renta, Emporio Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs or Zac Posen, then you need to be able to balance your face to a face 2. 

Start with light shadows in neutral families that are only a shade or two removed from your own skin tone. Try not to venture into anything that will make your eyes look either frosted, tanned or mega colorful. Try using a single color rather that say a whole palate kit that comes with three or four. Use only one to two coats of mascara and if more length or fullness is desired try lash corners or demi lashes to open the eye without pulling focus. One does not necessarily need eye liner with this look though a thin cat eye with either liquid or pot liner would be fine, just make sure the line you create is closer to the thickness of angel hair spaghetti than fettucini ;) 

Ok onto the lips. start with a little primer to keep everything in place. Just like the rest of your face your lips should be clean and moisturized. You can use chapstick but blot well afterwards to prevent your lipstick moving too much. In life one does not always need to line one's lips, however with red lipstick, I strongly recommend it. If there's one color you really don't want creeping anywhere, it's red. Nude or red liner will work. Use the natural shape of your lips as a guide. Avoid the Lucy Ricardo "smear" or the Kelly Taylor "twin peaks."  

Ok getting technical again. Let's return to that pesky color wheel once more. 

To select a red that is flattering to your skin tone you must acknowledge there are a great many different shades of red. Pass any nail polish display and you'll see that reds come in a dizzying array of hues and tones. If you happen to have a favorite shade of red nail polish that's actually a really great starting place. That means that without breaking it down, your eye and brain have noticed that a certain shade is exceptionally flattering to your coloring. Feel free to take that shade with you, or perhaps wear it, when you select a lip color.  

Look in the mirror. GORGEOUS!!!!!!!! Ok after a few hair tosses and a blown kiss, get some good lighting going on and take a look at your skin. Peruse the name of the foundation you have selected. Are the key words like olive, yellow, peach, rose, pink? Do you tan like a little berry in the sun or burn like a vampire? 

When you get sick (so....clearly when you're looking your ABSOLUTE BEST!) Does your face get ruddy red and blotchy, or pale and sallow and jaundiced? 

If you're a burner and a blusher you most likely have a good amount of red in your undertones, if you tan easily and look sallow when pale then there's a good chance you have more yellow in your skin tone. Now most people are a combination, few are straight up one or the other, but one will be more predominant. 

It's this color that will help you pick your lipstick. For those with more red in their complexion a red that has warmer undertones will be a wise family to start testing. 

These are reds that have sort of orangey and yellow family undertones. For those that have more yellow, try reds that have a cool background. these are reds that have blues and purple tints to them. 

Feel free to try, try, and try in the store. Grab those testing swabs and go to town. The best way to select a color you like is to play around with them. You can always start by buying something at the drugstore like CoverGirl to get an idea of what you like and then seek out similar color families from upscale pigment rich brands like MAC and Makeup Forever.  This season is not huge on shine but you can of course sample red glosses if you wish to dip your toe into the red deep end in without going all the way in. Sephora actually has good store brand glosses in a large display that makes shade selection quite fun, there are so many. Once you have your lipstick, just fill into the lines you have created with your lip liner. Most people blot but I'll let you in on my dirty secret. I hate blotting. I hate losing rich pigment to a tissue. However, to prevent against embarrassing teeth smudges, take a clean finger, pucker up, place it in your mouth and then pull it out. like an astro pop. I know, I know it's seems like your making a slightly sexual gesture, but I promise what happens is the color just on the very inside area of the lips comes off but not the rest of it. Try working matte shades this season to add texture to your look. And have fun! There's no point in red lipstick if you don't wear it out!

BKBTY