Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Foundation for Success: Part II

Airbrushing


Airbrushing systems encompass a wide variety of actual makeups and bases. You can fill an airbrush with anything as light as a mineral makeup (with a mixing medium) to as intense as a latex paint for prosthetic and fantasy work. The two most commonly used varieties however are water based liquid makeup and silicone based liquid makeup. They come with a "gun" (really the airbrush itself,) a connecting hose, and an air compressor. The size and intricacy of these components tends to vary by both brand and intended audience. For instance the increasingly popular Temptu at home system has a single action gun and 30 PSI of releasable air pressure, while the pro site sports dual action guns and much larger compressors capable of adjustable 40 PSI. So what the fish did I just say? You can get little ones that give you less power and little control, and big ones that give you lots of power and lots of control (but obviously for more $$$.) 

Why I like Airbrushing.
1. It's really flawless. No like REALLY flawless. You won't necessarily feel or look like you're wearing makeup you'll just suddenly look like you don't have any blemishes, scars, fine lines, sun damage, etc. It's ability to do this relies upon the fact that it's applied in a fine mist over the face and one can choose how much to put where, centimeter by centimeter, blended perfectly once again by virtue of the very nature of it's application. 
2. It lasts all day. Especially if you opt for the silicone based variety. Just pack up some oil blotting sheets and extra lip color and you'll be good all day. This makes it really perfect for bridal, editorial, and  beauty centric film work.  Which goes hand in hand with...
3. Combine reasons 1&2. If you are working in film and you're filming in HD or Digital, which most are these days, airbrush makeup is really perfection. You can prevent faces from being washed out by intense lighting, while avoiding the cakey smudgy appearance that traditional film/TV makeup now has under the intense scrutiny of "high def." It creates that "she's/he's so gorgeous and I don't even think she's/he's wearing makeup!!!!" phenomenon. Well, that and cosmetic procedures. If that makes you feel any better about it. Except Charlize Theron. Don't feel better about her. They had to pile makeup ON her to make her look like that for Monster.
4. It's fast. If you set up properly and keep your gun clean, you can really zip through a full face application which is awesome if you've got budgeted time/lots of faces. 
5. It's clean. No applicators to sanitize, no brushes to hide bacteria. This could be my favorite reason.
6. The makeup lasts a long time in your kit, you really only need a few drops to create enough mist for the whole face.


Why I don't recommend it for every day.

1. It's not especially good for your skin. Unless you have a pro kit and are mixing up your own mineral makeup every day to spray, even the water based makeups still have talcs in them. They're all light weight but can still clog your pores and your body can still absorb some of the less favorable ingredients. (Cylcomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, Fragrance, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Polyethylene, Silica, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Carbonate, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide) to name a few. Given it's ability to stay on for long periods of time it's perfect for formal events and important photo sessions (cough, your "ok cupid" pic, cough cough) but keeping that stuff on your skin every day takes it's toll. Save it for special occasions.
2. It's a bit akward.  I've airbrushed myself and I've airbrushed others and just from the angle your gun needs to aim at for self application, to the fact that you really have to keep your eyes open with air blowing in them, it's a bit uncomfortable.
3. It's not the easiest to take with you in your gym bag or brief case. Slightly too cumbersome and noisy for the bathroom touch up.
4. The at home system is the easiest to travel with but also the most limiting. You have NO control over your airpressure and no control over how much makeup is released. This runs down the compressor motor because it's constantly at full speed when it's on. It would be like ONLY ever driving a car at it's max velocity. It would have a much shorter life. Also if your skin tone does't fit EXACTLY into one of the "shade pod" options, well, tough luck. Spend more $$ on a second shade and blend on your face. Not ideal and also kinda discriminitory.  
5. You really need a powder to finish. Otherwise it leaves your face shiny. Not oily, just well, very shiny.
6. It needs intricate cleaning. We're talking teeny tiny pipe cleaners and a number of small parts. Just like a weapon you should be well aquainted with how to take it apart and put it back together before you go firing it. If you are an artist or festidious individual this is no big for you. If you are a very busy person who thought this product looked cool, your gun will jam with built up makeup and stop working and then you'll have to boil it in water. Be warned.

The best brands. 
I say for silicone Temptu, and for water based OCC Cosmetics. From an artist's standpoint they're the most malleable, mixable, and longest lasting, on the skin and shelf. The water based is slightly more skin friendly but also slightly less impervious to sweat, oil, tears, etc. So know what your using it for, before you make that call. I don't know of any bargain airbrush products to rate here so I'll get back to you when that happens....

What to keep in your kit.
If you really want to go for this, and it's worth it especially if you're an artist, go for a pro version. Whether that's either of the brands above, get the control and better air pressure. Your compressor will last longer so you'll save money in the long run. You can mix color right in the airbrush cup and get a whole palette to create every shade under the sun. Make sure you get a cleaning system to avoid a jammed gun and angry customers....

What to leave to the pros.
Ok, I don't usually recommend this, but here I go. Airbrushes are best left to professionals or serious makeup enthusiasts. If you want a flawless, perfect airbrushing, the best system to have is to hire is an  artist for a makeup app. You can certainly go ahead and try a system if you're not in the trade, I'm not trying to be judgmental of anyone who chooses to do so. But they require a different skill set from most makeup, and it's one that takes practice. --No like there's a whole list of target drills to master to become proficient.-- They're not the best for your skin for daily wear and you need to be able to devote a certain amount of time to pulling them apart to clean them after using them. It's awkward to self apply and doesn't mix well with powders or other liquids that you might want for an on the go touch up should you manage to remove/smudge some, (it can happen.) In life, as with all things, there's a time and place when you realize you just really need to break down and call the plumber, or the electrician because of their expertise and specialized skill set. Ditto here mes amis.

What to leave on the shelf.
Those blasted pods and single action guns. They are limiting and no good for the longevity of your system.

BKBTY

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