Saturday, August 3, 2013

Foundation for Success Part IV

Pressed Powder

Let's get a little into the history of pressed powder as a foundation for a second, well really foundation in general, because it will make it easier to understand why it became so popular and why it's, in my opinion, becoming somewhat obsolete, for primary applications, in today's market. 

So, skipping Egyptians and Grecian Priestesses using clay/minerals/led to paint their faces let's move into the 20th century to speed things up a bit. The only people who were really using makeup (openly) were theatrical individuals or prostitutes. (woot! good group.) But these were thick led based grease paints with heavy powders for setting. In 1914 the great Max Factor started creating film based cosmetics similar to stage but which would hold up to the scrutiny of close camera angles. First came "flexible grease paint" that had a creme base blended with oil. But that was still set with a fine loose powder. Afterwards in the 1930's the next innovation for Factor was pancake makeup. Now pancake didn't need to be set with powder. It went on wet and set itself while drying, and believe it or not this is the very first pressed powder. Yup early pressed powders required water to apply and they took off like wildfire. Pancake makeup is responsible for foundation wear in this country. While lip color and mascara started becoming more popular in the 1920's most women didn't wear foundation until pancake, when
suddenly over a quarter of them did. From there a lighter oil based "grease stick" became popular during the 1940's and then water based Liquid Foundation in the 50's. Pressed powder was busy getting turned into rouge and eyeshadow. Emollients like wax were being either replaced or removed for dry applications. Pressed foundations were also being made this way but were being used more as work day touch ups. Every 1960's woman applied her liquid but kept her pressed powder compact in her purse for "on the go." Then during the mid 90's pressed powder foundation had a revival. Better formulations meant skipping liquid all together and having an "all in one" powder plus foundation for ladies who didn't want to wear "a ton" of makeup but who still wanted some "sheer & matte" coverage. (What's funny about this to me is that pressed powder is considered quite heavy by today's standards, but we'll get to that.) MAC's pigment dense pressed powders went hand in hand with the rise in popularity of their liquids, and starlets like Britney and Christina often sported both during the Millennial years. Then, the bubble burst. Suddenly the light weight became the heavy weight. Digital film and HDTV made it obvious how cake like and pore-iffic pressed powder looked. In the mid 90's a small San Francisco based loose powder makeup company began advertising late at night on QVC, and by the late 2000's bareMinerals had become a household name.

So why would we still use a pressed powder? Well, frankly, they're dang convenient. Just about every foundation (save air brush) now has a pressed version of itself, (including Bare Minerals.) Much easier to carry in one's purse, brief case, gym bag, than a bottle or jar of liquid or loose powder. Easier to keep the applicator and bag, clean, (good luck with a kabuki brush in your purse...) I myself skip pressed powder. Why? I use oil blotting sheets and call it a day. If I really need to control the shine I'll bring a little loose setting powder as well, but I'm not a huge fan of continually reapplying foundation all day,
or I should say, my skin isn't. That being said there are some brands still worth mentioning if you want to try a little more coverage with a little less fuss.

1. MAC Studio Fix Powder & Foundation (1st pic in this entry)
If you really want the all in one this is still best choice. It's exceedingly pigment dense and has a high moisture content. Not known to be great for the skin but meant to look great in pics if you're not using a close up digital camera or maybe you're even using, dare I say, film??? (what's that? younglings say, and then you slap them.) Remember Britney on her "Oops I did it Again" cover? That's MAC liquid followed by a MAC pressed = COVERAGE!!!!!!!

2. Clinique's Superpowder Double Face makeup.  (2nd pic in this entry)
Long time standby of many a lady and still at the top of it's game. Not quite as rich or pigmented than MAC, but long touted for it's ability to cover just about anything you throw at it. Or under it. As the case may be. Heh. My personal beef with this product is it's lack in colors frankly. I think it's a little appalling that in 2013 a big time line like this offers a foundation in 8 shades. Yup 8. All pretty light too if you ask me.... 

3. Makeup Forever Pro Finish Multi Use Powder Foundation (3rd pic in this entry)
Good because of it's flexibility, harkens back to older products that can be used either wet or dry for different finishes. Not as full coverage as the previous two, but also hides better in film. 

4. bareMinerals Ready Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 20. (pictured left)  
See the mineral makeup entry for all the benefits of this product. Makes this list due to it's skin/body friendly formulation. Cons seems to be a consistency issue with some left feeling it's too cakey. Others site this as an application/inexperience issue and claim it's great when not caked on....

It's not my first pick for a foundation, but it's clear that given it's great ability to travel, well, it isn't really going anywhere.... ;)



BKBTY

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