When Concealment IS the Truth.

Concealer: A Guide

No hate on these beauties, just to prove that it's ok, we're all human <3

Everyone has those days. From the biggest Hollywood stars, to that person at work/the gym/ in class who always seems perfect. A sleepless night, a blemish, a bruise, a bug bite, a funky sunburn, allergies, re-cooping from sickness, hormone fluctuation- trust me EVERYONE has had one, if not more of, these in their lives. What's important to always remember is that these changes are temporary in the grand scheme of things. They can alter with time, medication, season, healthy lifestyle changes, healing, etc. They do not define who you are, or what you intrinsically look like. It's true that makeup is superficial. That beauty, confidence, popularity, success, all come from within. In my line of work, I know that better than most. But I also know that it does no good to be afraid, or ashamed, to pass a mirror. To have anxiety about social functions, speaking up at work, or to miss an opportunity, because of a temporary appearance. So I say-- cover one impermanence with another. Even if other treatments, or time, are healing the underlying issue, a cut needs more than just Neosporin, it needs a bandaid too. So why not choose one with cartoon characters or those fun waterproof neon ones, right?!?!??! To that end here are some concealers that I feel are the best. From heavy tattoo covers, to red carpet level, to gentle full coverage products that are medicated. First lets go into the color wheel just a tad. 

For those of you who have ever wondered why some concealers work better than others, or why one works great for acne, but makes your under eyes look muddy, here's a quick study about what colors to use where. Look at the wheel below. Now the best way to correct an undesired tone is to neutralize it by using its' complementary color, or the color directly across from it on the color wheel. Most under eye darkness is primarily dusky purple because the thin skin in the area is revealing the veins and capillaries underneath, so to neutralize it we would pick a light yellow. If those veins look very blue under your eyes, try using a slightly more salmon color that has an orangey quality to it. For redness, try a light green concealer. Because brown is essentially what happens when complementaries combine, inspect hyper-pigmented areas carefully. They may have more of a base color than you think. Use a pigment a couple shades lighter than your natural tone with just a little of either green, peach, or yellow. 

1. Heavy Coverage. 

I mean stage makeup heavy, oil based, cream corrective makeup. Ben Nye makes a mean concealer palette that I have had the good fortune to own for a number of years and have used for everything from stage makeup applications, photo shoots, important social events, weddings.

Pros: This coverage stands up to very bright lighting and sweat. coupled with full coverage foundation like Ben Nye or MAC your blemishes or uneven tone will NOT show through. Being a pro based line, this palette comes in colors you essentially mix yourself. Light yellow and light green you can either apply directly or dilute with one of the more flesh toned shades or your foundation. It also contains tattoo cover. 

Cons: This is the LEAST friendly to your skin or body long term. So if your temporary skin issue could become infected in any way, or you have acne prone or sensitive skin, you might want to try another solution, or at least use this only for a very important event now and then. Not an every day correction, but superb for important events you want to remember looking like you and not like a skin disorder. 

Apply with a FRESH sponge, CLEAN fingers, or CLEAN brush. 

2. Medium Coverage. 

Makeup Forever has great small palettes in three different skin tone families. With corrective colors you can apply directly or mix to your foundation. They also make a great full cover concealer for large areas or to even overall skin tone. These two products can be mixed together for gentle corrective concealer. Pairs well with their HD foundation.

Pros: Will stand up to photos, a good 5 to 6 hours of the day, and parties, but bring a little more in your purse for touch ups through out the day. If you're having skin health issues, you may be washing your face in the middle of the day anyway, so bring more for that after lunch freshening. 

Cons: Well it's quite a bit lighter weight, and formulated to be ok for sensitive skin, but don't expect noncomedogenic. If your coverage needs don't require that, then this is a perfect every day solution. If you're looking to conceal for acne prone skin, then this might be good for social or formal functions, but again, not for everyday. Use a FRESH sponge, CLEAN fingers or CLEAN brush. (same types as above.)

3. Light Coverage:

Two different options here. We'll continue the way that we've started by going in order of heavier to lighter. The first is Neutrogena's SkinClearing Blemish Concealer. If you're like me, and have been reading this whole entry waiting for a good acne concealer this is it. 

Pros: It won't clog your pores or cause more blemishes. It has salicylic acid right in the formulation so it's treating your skin while covering it. Can be used for spot coverage without necessarily using a foundation on top. You can wear it to the gym, though remember to keep up with good habits. Don't wear to bed, or for more than 5 or 6 hours without cleansing the skin. 

Cons: Not photo proof. Great for street coverage and perfect for work/school/errands etc. but not great for photos or bright lights. Even intense sunlight will reveal discoloration beneath the surface. Comes with it's own applicator. Clean hands can be used to disperse more thoroughly.

The second product is the lightest of all. Perfect for all skin types, and sensitivities. Hides well especially when paired with matching foundation, though not necessary. It's the Bare Minerals multi-taskers. *Well rested is just for the under eye area.*

Pros: The bisque family is meant for all other discoloration and now comes in a variety of different hues for different skin tones. It's not medicated but mineral makeup has the ability to heal and treat blemishes. Also has SPF 20. Can be worn to the gym, and to bed, though frankly I wouldn't go to bed without washing your face. It's not a good idea. 

Cons: Unless you really pile it on, (yeah, I've done it.) It's not photo proof. It's probably the least long wearing of all the options, but again, if you're washing your face in the middle of the day, you're reapplying anyway. Also ---I'll list it here to finish the thought, though it is a "PRO,"--- you can pile more on without ill effects. Not the best for long lasting wear, but full enough coverage for everyday. My biggest issue is; though I like how it covers, they don't really have a green based corrector for red areas. So I would maybe try the Makeup Forever if you really need to specifically block redness. Otherwise it works well for discoloration. Apply with a small brush.

I hope that this list is helpful. I also hope that if any of you have questions about the topic that I've missed, that you'll feel free to ask them in the comment section, and I will attend to them. Everyone deserves the right to feel the best about themselves, everyday <3

Remember the most important thing to take from this entry is to love your skin and yourself. View the concealer as a tool to help you feel your best while you heal, treat, fight your way to healthy skin :) 

BKBTY